Leather boot laces don't feel like waxed cotton or paracord out of the box. They're stiffer, they take more effort to thread, and they may not hold a knot as well on day one. While that's completely normal, here's what to expect from your new leather laces and how to speed the break-in process along.
What's Happening During Break-In
Latigo leather is combination-tanned, chrome tanned first, followed by a vegetable re-tanned. The chrome tanning gives the leather water resistance while the veg re-tan gives the leather structure and firmness that increases strength and reduces stretching. As a side effect, the laces this veg re-tan makes the laces feel stiff when new. As you wear the laces, the friction from tying and untying, the natural oils from your hands, and the repeated flexing at the eyelets soften the leather fibers and break down that initial rigidity.
Just like how your boots need to be broken in, the leather laces are adapting to how you use them. Though unlike your boots, your laces will break in days rather than weeks or months.
The Timeline
Days 1-3: Stiff. Threading through eyelets takes some effort. Knots may not hold perfectly as the leather is too smooth and rigid for there to be enough friction to tightly hold the knot. This is the stage where you may think you made a mistake changing your laces. Don't worry! They'll loosen up shortly.
Days 4-10: Noticeably softer. The laces start to flex more easily and the knot improves. The leather begins to pick up oils from your hands and the boot's leather. You may notice some slightly wear on the edges of the laces as loose fibers.
Weeks 2-4: Broken in. The laces conform to the contours of your boots' eyelets and tongue, the knot holds reliably, and the leather has started developing its own character. From this point on, they only get better.
How to Speed It Up
Wear them. The fastest way to break in leather laces is to use them. Every lacing and unlacing cycle works the leather. Every hour on your feet transfers heat and movement.
Work them with your hands. Before you lace them up for the first time, run the full length of each lace through your hands a few times, flexing and bending it. This pre-softens the fibers and makes the initial lacing easier.
Condition them lightly. A very small amount of leather conditioner (whatever you use on your boots) rubbed into the laces with your fingers will accelerate the softening. The laces will darken slightly, which will happen with wear anyways.
Don't oil them. Leather oil (neatsfoot, mink oil) is too heavy for laces. It can oversaturate the thin leather, make it limp, and cause it to stretch more than the 5-10% that's normal for latigo. Use conditioner, not oil.
Stretch Expectations
Latigo leather stretches 5-10% as it breaks in. A 54″ lace will settle somewhere around 56-59″ over the first few weeks. We sell laces in a trim-to-size 72" length. Lace them up and tie them as is, then cut off the excess with sharp scissors or a razor blade. As they stretch over time, just cut again as needed.
Leather laces don't have aglets, so cutting them to length is straightforward — use sharp scissors or a razor blade for a clean cut.
Knot Tips During Break-In
Until the leather softens enough to grip inside a knot, tie a surgeon's knot or double knot. The double wrap creates enough friction to hold the bow in place even on smooth new leather. After a week or two of wear, you'll be able to switch to a standard knot.
Care and Patina
Once broken in, leather laces are the lowest-maintenance lace material. They don't need regular conditioning as the oils from your hands during daily lacing are enough to keep them from drying out. If they feel a little stiff from extended storage or harsh conditions, a light application of conditioner brings them back.
The patina that develops on leather laces is one of the reasons people choose them. They darken at the eyelets where they flex, lighten where they're exposed to sun, and pick up character from the boot's leather and whatever conditions you put them through. After six months, no two pairs of leather laces look the same.